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EN NEW YORK TIMES-BESTSELLERMalibu, 1983. Det er aftenen for de berømte Rivasøskendes myteomspundne fest, der hvert år markerer, at sommeren går på hæld. I timerne mellem skumring og solopgang bliver de fire søstre og brødre tvunget til at se hemmeligheder i øjnene, de har holdt skjult for sig selv og hinanden samt – ikke mindst – stå ansigt til ansigt med deres fraværende far, den legendariske crooner Mick Riva. Og da morgenen gryr, står Malibu i flammer.Malibu i flammer er en roman om at være født som sine forældres barn, men vokse til at blive sin egen person. Om et surferliv i pastel-80‘ernes Malibu og omverdenens sult efter indersiden af et liv levet i rampelyset. Og om at sætte ild til det hele for at undslippe en kurs udstukket af andre.
“Cold Hawaii” er de lokale surferes betegnelse for den 55 km lange kyststrækning ved Nordjyllands vestkyst, der strækker sig fra Agger i syd til Hanstholm i nord, og kysten gemmer på adskillige surfspots.Ideelle vindforhold og den voksende surfkultur i Cold Hawaii har været med til at sætte en del af Danmarks udkant på verdenskortet. De kolde bølger og Nordens barske vejr har affødt en nordisk surfkultur, som adskiller sig fra det almene billede af et surfparadis med palmer, bare overkroppe og turkise havoverflader.Denne bog dykker ned i kulturfænomenet Cold Hawaii og den nordiske surfkultur i Thy, præsenteret gennem 20 lokale fortællinger. Her kan du blandt lokale og tilflyttere møde fotografer, lokale designere, ildsjælene bag en surf- og filmfestival, der tiltrækker opmærksomhed fra hele verden, og surfere, der lever i synergi med de nordiske elementer og surfer på de iskolde vinterbølger.Alle portrætterne fremstilles gennem både interviews foretaget af forfatteren til bogen og smukke fotografier taget af nogle af de lokale fotografer, der optræder i bogen. Det er en coffee table-bog, der på fineste vis giver læseren et indblik i den særlige kultur, der er opstået langs den nordlige vestkyst.
During a college break in 1983, 23-year-old Stan Dean set off with two friends on a dream road trip from California down the coast to Mexico in search of surf, self, and adventure.Growing up in a bohemian family in suburban L.A., Dean is troubled and rebellious, keen to paddle into deeper realms. He retraces his journey in this true story overflowing with wild waves, sex, drugs, danger, and enchantment. As he moves through pristinely beautiful towns and little-discovered surf spots, he finds himself tripping on acid in the jungle and finding solace among drifters, hustlers, pot smugglers, and wave junkies, eventually surfing the legendary 'Mexican Pipeline'.Equal parts surf tale and coming-of-age memoir, Sun Gods and Surfers is a personal and philosophical odyssey, full of unexpected surprises. While wrestling with the mysteries of synchronicity and the mechanics of manifesting, Dean explores the wonder and subculture of surfing, the ocean's beauty and power, and our place in the natural world, leading him to his true self. Lifetimes later, after thousands of miles, countless adventures, and a family of his own, Dean still chases after the perfect wave.
An illustrated journey through modern surf culture guided by the international surfers and communities that define its inclusive and passionate nature.Epic photography brings the stories of a unique group of global communities, and the surfers that represent them, to life.Told in their own words, some of the world’s most exciting professional and freestyle surfers—at different moments in their careers—introduce the influential figures, places, and waves that have shaped their lives, and their surfing.From Ireland’s rugged and unforgiving west coast to the famous beaches of Oahu, Hawaii, making stops across six continents along the way, Breitling provides a unique and unexpected window on the modern surf experience.The sport’s inclusive spirit is what inspired the iconic watch brand—a champion of surf culture and maker of timepieces for ocean pursuits since 1957—to highlight surf’s wider community with a book dedicated to the sport’s diverse characters, unexpected outposts, and collective culture.Based on interviews with surfers about the local communities they call home, The Breitling Book of Surfing is as much an in-depth travelogue as it is a beautiful photography book. It is for long-term surfing enthusiasts and newcomers alike, exploring the common values and passions that shape this diverse and dynamic global community connected by the ocean.
An exciting and entertaining new book, 100 Foot Wave: Kingdom of Hawaii, has recently been made available, enabling all surfing fanatics and landlubbers alike to climb into the psyche of death-defying giant wave riders and their relentless ambition to surf the largest waves Earth's oceans can spawn.Authored by twin brothers Milton and Michael Willis, themselves balls-to-the-wall giant wave riders, 100 Foot Wave: Kingdom of Hawaii, delves deep into what drives men to risk their lives for the thrill of surfing perhaps the largest waves ever attempted.Chapter by thrilling chapter, the Willis Bros take you through not only their personal development in becoming giant wave riders, they cover the history, culture and unique art of those that embrace this extreme sport, as well as big wave surfing legends Laird Hamilton, Buzzy Kerbox, Garrett McNamara, Ken Bradshaw, Ace Cool, Mark Foo, Peter Mel, and Taylor Knox, to name a few.As you read on, you will learn about heart-clutching big wave wipeouts that reside in the "House of Pain"; surviving treacherous rip currents in churning seas, and the dramatic Code Black Waimea Bay rescue of Titi Kinimaka by Carl Palmer and Michael Willis.Of course, none of these extreme big wave surfers could even dream of paddling out in such conditions without the physical and mental training it takes to ride these fast moving, monster walls of water. The Willis Bros address this most critical subject in the chapter "Now, Mind/Body, Body/Mind Unification". Whether you aspire to become an extreme big wave surfer or stoked just to cruise small beachbreaks, there is great value in absorbing the information offered here.Published by The Surfing Authority and dubbed "the Iliad, the Odyssey, and the Bible all rolled into one", 100 Foot Wave: Kingdom of Hawaii was written by the Willis Bros in the true Spirit of Aloha, resulting in an important and classic literary contribution to the world of surfing. Thus far, rave reviews have come pouring in from across the planet, validating the Willis Bros hard work in putting this book together.
A love letter to the beaches and boardwalks of the Jersey Shore, this is the first visual history of the passionate surf culture that has thrived on the Atlantic coast of New Jersey, and its influence on the worlds of surfing, skateboarding, and beyond. Often overlooked for the warmer waters of its Hawaiian and Californian counterparts, the Atlantic coast of New Jersey has inspired a surf culture all its own, and in turn has held unsung influence over the history of the sport in America. Drawing on archives of photographs and ephemera from private collections, and from those held in the New Jersey Surf Museum and New Jersey Surfing Hall of Fame, this is a celebration of East Coast surfing, from its pioneering beginnings at the end of the nineteenth century to its heyday in the 1980s as the scene converged with skateboarding and a shared influence on street style. Alongside insightful texts that illuminate previously unheralded moments in the evolution of the sport, the book not only introduces some of the greatest unseen surf photography of the last century but also lets the Jersey Shore take its rightful place in the history of American surf culture.
"During the early 1980's, Santa Barbara, California, saw an extraordinary mix of innovation, individuals and imagery, combined with a relatively rare meteorological phenomena, that led to one of the most influential periods in modern surf history. The rise of young legend-to-be and future three-time world champion Tom Curren, whose preternatural wave-riding abilities would help establish California at the forefront of contemporary surfing; the emergence of then-unknown board builder Al Merrick of Channel Island Surfboards, who would go on to becoming the sport's premier board-builder; a once-in-a-generation run of exceptional surf conditions - photographer Jimmy Metyko was there to capture it all. With a compelling blend of dramatic action, intimate moments and epic waves, Metyko's imagery and personal perspectives articulate a remarkable waypoint on the sport's cultural timeline, as well as a better understanding, and appreciation, of where surfing is today."--Amazon.com.
Aerial, Twinfin und Newschool - heutiger Surferjargon lässt kaum vermuten, dass die neuzeitliche Geschichte des Surfens mit Captain Cooks Südsee-Expedition 1778 begann. Von Polynesien aus hat das Surfen die Welt erobert und mittlerweile viele Bereiche unserer Kultur durchdrungen - Mode, Pop, Sport, Kino und Fotografie . Was Anfang des letzten Jahrhunderts noch ein exotisches Vergnügen weniger Abenteurer war und später als Subkultur die Mythologie Kaliforniens prägte, ist im Mainstream angekommen und mit seinen rund 20 Millionen Aktiven weltweit und ungezählten Fans zur festen Größe der Freizeitindustrie geworden, mit internationalen Stars, Weltranglisten und spektakulären Events wie den "Big Wave Awards", auf atemberaubenden Action-Shots millionenfach publiziert und ins Netz gestellt. Jim Heimanns Buch zeichnet diese Geschichte nach, mit Hunderten von Bildern und Beiträgen renommierter Surfjournalisten . Der Band folgt der Chronologie der Ereignisse vom Erstkontakt der Europäer mit dem Surfen bis in unsere Tage der Eventkultur. Mehr als zwei Jahrhunderte Surf Culture, illustriert mit einer überwältigenden Fülle an Bildmaterial aus öffentlichen wie privaten Sammlungen und Archiven, kommentiert und erläutert von der ersten Liga des Surfschreibertums. Die Bibel für jeden Surffan, popkulturell Interessierten und Bilderhungrigen.
Dive into the captivating history of WindanSea, celebrated across the globe as a surfer's paradise nestled on the picturesque coastline of La Jolla, California. The beach is home to an iconic surfer's shack, erected in 1946, now recognized as a treasured piece of history. "The Stormy Legacy of WindanSea" reveals the stories beneath its serene exterior, exposing a saga steeped in surf mythology, echoing the untamed spirit of the Wild West - complete with tales of wild beach parties, skirmishes with local cops, and the audacious adventures of surfing icons whose legacies are etched into the waves. This book is a must-read for aficionados of surfing and its vibrant culture.
Surfing represents freedom, creative expression, and a connection to nature, and Surf Life captures that through the stories of twenty-eight powerful female surfers.
The California Surfers with Colorful Boards pocket journal features a vintage travel illustration of surfers in the water from above. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
Team Wave Surfing is a new spin on the sport of surfing. It's an interactive game between two teams who gain points for traditional surfing techniques when playing as one team of three players on the wave line to gain points for their cohesive game play. This rule book shares the creation of the game, how to play the game and the judging of the game. Team Wave Surfing was created to offer an opportunity for youth to play together, work together while surfing to introduce a new spin on the sport of surfing. www.teamwavesurfing.org
The Vintage Journal Surfers Paddling, Aptos, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration . This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Surfers Paddling, Malibu, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of a bunch of surfers paddling in Malibu. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Surfers, Cayucos, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of surfers surfing in Cayucos. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Surfer Girls, Huntington Beach, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of surfer girls standing by a tall surfboard by the beach. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Surfers, Huntington Beach, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of an overview of surfers surfing on Huntington Beach. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Surfers from Above, Santa Cruz, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of surfers with colourful and attractive surfboards surfing. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Sixties Surfer Girls, Morro Bay, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of three surfer girls in bathing suits standing next to a surfboard on the beach. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Surfers Paddling, Manhattan Beach pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of an aerial shot of surfers with colourful surfborads on the Mangatten Beach. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Blonde Woman with Tall Surfboard, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of a blonde woman next to a tall surfboard. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Lots of Guys Surfing, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of many people surfing and catching the waves. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Aerial View of Surfers with Colorful Boards, California pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of an aerial view of surfers with colourful surfboards. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
The Vintage Journal Colorful Surfers and Surf Boards in Green Water, Carpinteria pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of surfer with colourful surfboards in the Green water. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish
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